The thrust of Britain's history has been a struggle between the rich and poor, a never-ending conflict between the classes. Even today, Britain remains divided between the haves and have- nots. Nowhere is this division better emphasized than in the majestic stately home, the lavishly decorated mansions that are still scattered about the countryside. Many of these wondrous homes have origins in the Middle Ages, starting their existence as castles, fortified military establishments. Over time, as their purpose evolved, so did their structural designs, and today we may experience the splendor of the wealthy and powerful in such homes. Ironically, the names of these marvels still reflect their original function, as castles.

Belvoir Castle in Leicestershire must more accurately be viewed as a stately home. However, it began its life as a true castle, an earth and timber fortification erected in the years shortly after the Norman Conquest. Pronounced "beever", the castle's majestic name dates to Norman times and means "beautiful view", a very fitting label for this picturesque estate. Belvoir Castle was begun by Robert de Todeni, who served as William the Conqueror's Standard Bearer during the Battle of Hastings. Probably, a motte castle was built at Belvoir no later than the 1080's, a structure that would have been quite typical of its day.

Little is known of this initial fortification, and we can only presume that it was soon reinforced with stone, for a medieval seal depicts the castle with a large, rectangular keep and masonry curtain wall. Robert de Todeni was also responsible for the construction of a priory adjacent to the castle, and was buried inside the chapel in 1088. Having been unearthed in the 18th century, Robert now rests inside the castle (still in his coffin!). Interestingly, Robert's descendants were surnamed Albini, and were members of one of the most powerful of medieval England's noble families (William de Albini was a masterful castle-builder; see earlier article on Arundel Castle). When the last male Albini heir died in 1247, Belvoir Castle passed through marriage to Robert de Ros and his heirs.

The de Ros family maintained control of the castle until 1464, when Thomas, Lord Ros, was executed for his support of the Lancastrians during the Wars of the Roses. Consequently, Belvoir and its estates passed to William, Lord Hastings, having already survived an onslaught by Edward IV three years earlier. Unfortunately, Belvoir Castle was fated to fall into ruin, after another attack by faithful friends of Lord Ros and quarrying by Lord Hastings, who used the stone and roofing lead for another Leicestershire castle, Ashby de la Zouch - a marvel of medieval construction that also has survived the ravages of time. After Lord Hastings' tenure at the castle, it fell into profound ruin.

Shortly after Henry VII gained Britain's throne (the direct result of the Wars of the Roses), Belvoir Castle was granted once again to the de Ros family, and it soon passed to Sir Robert Manners with his marriage to the de Ros heiress, Eleanor. Robert's grandson, Thomas Manners, the first Earl of Rutland, initiated the castle's rebirth in about 1523; its rebuilding effort was completed some 32 years later, by the second Earl of Rutland. What was created was typical of the Tudor age: no longer needing the protection of massive masonry walling, the castle became a modestly fortified manor house fit for the rich or famous.

From the mid-16th century to the present time, Belvoir Castle has remained the property of the Rutlands, first earls and later to become dukes. The Earls of Rutland were prominent during the reigns of Elizabeth I (when the 5th earl was imprisoned for treason) and James I (who was lavishly entertained at the castle). Yet, Belvoir Castle fell victim to the chaos of the English Civil War in the mid 1600's. Its Royalist garrison was heavily besieged in 1645, and in 1649, Cromwell ordered the "slighting" of the castle, rendering it useless.

Another Belvoir Castle was erected on the site in 1654 and finished in 1668. Amazingly, the present castle is yet another regeneration of the castle, for much of the 17th century structure was eventually torn down. And it was not until the 1800's that reconstruction was begun to any degree. Despite devastation by a fire in 1816, most of the castle was saved. The final product is what we see today: a marvelous castellated home that simply takes one's breath away!

The Dukes of Rutland still own and occupy Belvoir Castle, and keep it in a state of perpetual splendor. Its exteriors are a jumble of shapes molded into a cohesive unit of oranges and cream colors, corner towers adorned with battlemented turrets, and an impressive round tower which complements the rectangular structures on the opposite facade. Surrounding the structure are lovely gardens hallmarked with fine sculpture and colorful flowers.

Inside, the rooms are ornamented with uplifting vaulting, intricate arcading, brilliant gilded ceilings, luscious tapestries, an extensive collection of paintings and portraiture, silks and statuary. Visitors are welcomed into the Guardroom, up the Grand Staircase, through the Ballroom, the ornate Chinese Bedroom and Dressing Room, the splendid Elizabeth Saloon (named for the 5th Duchess of Rutland, who directed the castle's rebirth after the Great Fire) with its amazing gilt and painted ceilings and mirrored walls, the Grand Dining Room (equally dazzling), the King's Rooms, two galleries, and the impressive albeit simple (relatively speaking) family Chapel. On the lower floors, the enormous kitchen and beer cellars are also viewable. The interesting Regimental Museum of the 17th/21st Lancers is also located inside the castle, and worth a visit.

In all, Belvoir Castle offers us an intriguing, fanciful passage into the world of the wealthiest of England's classes. We can only marvel at its existence, combatting time, neglect, intentional devastation and fire, and appreciate its splendor.

Belvoir Castle is located about 7 miles west of Grantham, Leicestershire, in the heart of England. It is best accessed via the A607 Grantham-Melton Mowbray Road, turning west on a minor roadway leading to the property. Look for signs. The castle and grounds are open regularly during the summer, and only on Sundays during October. Check for opening hours. Fee.

Lise Hull owns and operates CASTLES UNLIMITED, a business dedicated to the promotion and study of British castles. She has a Masters Degree in Historic Preservation and has visited well over 160 castles in Britain. She may be reached at: 942 2nd Street NE, Bandon, OR 97411. Email: CASTLESU@aol.com

© 1996 Lise Hull