STOKESAY CASTLE
copyright 1997 by Lise Hull

More accurately described as a fortified manor house, pretty Stokesay Castle sits on the English side of the Welsh Marches, its well-preserved beauty disguising its ancient origins. Not only is the castle a visual treat, with its charming golden half-timbered gatehouse encouraging entry into the courtyard, but it also is a rare example of the classic medieval fortified residence. Here, living accommodations were given the same weight as defensive needs. The entire structure is deceptively simple, but adequately met the needs of the owners for well over 600 years.

Stokesay takes its name from two sources: "stoke" means "dairy farm"; "say" is derived from the castle's original builders, the de Say family, Normans who were granted ownership of the estates at Stoke and at nearby Clun (which still has its own fine castle). The de Says were, for a time, one of the wealthiest families living on the Welsh Borders. However, by the 1250's their power in the region declined, and in 1281 the manor house at Stokesay was sold to Lawrence de Ludlow, a prosperous wool merchant who gave his name to an even grander stronghold less than ten miles to the south.

During the Middle Ages, the county of Shropshire, in which the two castles now reside, was the locus of a highly successful wool industry. In 1273, of the 1200 sacks of English wool exported, Shropshire contributed 660. Lawrence de Ludlow used his business skills to amass a considerable fortune, and the power that came with it allowed him to attain the unofficial status of a lord. The entire region around Ludlow is filled with reminders of the great age of wool, the most notable of which are the two castles.

The de Say family had constructed a fine manor house on the site in Stoke, but Lawrence de Ludlow sought to make it even grander. So, in 1291, he obtained a "license to crenelate", authorizing the ambitious man to strengthen the castle's defenses. Consequently, he tore down almost all of the original structure and replaced it with most of what we see today. Apparently, Ludlow's main concern was two-fold: to erect a splendid manor with all the necessary creature comforts he could muster, and to ensure proper defense against any local upstart who had the audacity to defy him. Of the de Say manor house, Lawrence retained the North Tower (which dates to 1240). Even though Ludlow added an upper story to the tower, it remains essentially intact and is the oldest surviving structure at the castle.

Aside from the North Tower and the gatehouse, the surviving structures at Stokesay date to Lawrence de Ludlow's occupation. Ludlow's castle was built with several features typical of a true medieval castle: it was square-shaped; surrounded with a water-filled moat (now in-filled) and a curtain wall that once rose over 30 feet (the last remaining portion stands alongside the South Tower); accessed through a gatehouse (eventually replaced with the charmer we pass through today); protected by two formidable towers; and contained elaborate residential structures (namely, the great hall and kitchen block, and the "lord's" private chamber). Each
of the buildings has survived the centuries amazingly complete. Not only do we have the efforts of modern preservationists to thank for this fine state of repair, but also the fact that the manor was inhabited almost continuously from its inception.

Dying in a drowning accident while on a mission to Flanders, poor Lawrence de Ludlow was only able to enjoy the fruits of his labors for a few short years. His descendants continued to own the castle at Stokesay for another 300 years. What Lawrence contributed to the manor house includes the remarkable South Tower, the hall range which sits directly across the courtyard from the gatehouse, and the alteration of the North Tower. Each structure is fascinating in its own right.

The five-sided North Tower overlooked the moat and the Church of St. John the Baptist, which is also open to the public. The angular tower was constructed with fine-cut stone and supported a projecting platform (hoarding) around the upper battlements. It has now been determined that this platform, which is graced with half-timbering and numerous windows, is original to the castle. When completed, the North Tower consisted of two upper stories and a basement level which probably served as the castle's storeroom. The basement still contains traces of medieval painting and a deep drain that emptied into the moat. On the upper floors are original timbers, floor tiles from the church next door, and a very ruined fireplace.

The breath-taking hall block rests between the two great towers. The range of buildings is remarkably well-preserved, slightly modified during the 19th century. Not only are the medieval timber beams visible, but elaborately carved woodwork also decorates the interiors of the hall block. This hall was the center of activity, the focal point of the castle where the Ludlows and later owners entertained guests, administered justice, and took care of daily necessities. It also housed the "lord of the manor" and his immediate family, and, when necessary, the hall block also accommodated guests and servants.

Stokesay's great hall is enormous, rising some 35 feet into the air and spanning over 50 feet in length. Well-lit by numerous large windows (their glass panes symbolizing the owner's great wealth - incredibly, glass was so expensive that the panes were carted from manor to manor when the family was on the move!). The interior dwarfs the visitor - probably the effect Lawrence de Ludlow wanted to achieve. The original "cruck-roofed" ceiling is simply spectacular, with its exposed timber beams intricately linked together in a grand display of medieval skill. (Much of Stokesay Castle's interior timber framework is now exposed and available for detailed investigation. As such, we can learn much about medieval building techniques, and marvel at its durability and complexity.) Along one wall are another are find, the remains of a timber staircase which allowed access to the North Tower. All great halls of any worth offered heating to the guests of the castle. Stokesay was no different. However, instead of the usual grand fireplace embedded in one wall of the chamber, here we have the relics of an open hearth, strategically placed in the center of the hall. Remarkably, none of the manor's owners ever thought to construct an opening in the roof to vent smoke - the blackened timbers are proof of this apparent oversight. Perhaps, the huge number of windows made a roof vent unnecessary.

Lawrence de Ludlow also erected a private withdrawing chamber, the solar, at the south end of the hall block, between the hall and the great tower. The solar defines the word "splendor", adorned well after de Ludlow's death with Elizabethan oak panelling and a magnificent fireplace. Topping the fireplace is an elaborately carved Flemish mantle-piece, remnants of paint still visible. After retiring for the evening, the shrewd wool merchant kept an eye on any lingering companions through "squint holes" discretely cut into the wall next to the mammoth fireplace. Enormous lancet-headed windows complete this vision of medieval grandeur. Almost joining the solar is perhaps the most incongruous, structure at Stokesay Castle, the South Tower. Built to serve the defensive needs of the times, its intimidating presence greatly contrasts with the almost feminine quality of the rest of the castle. The polygonal tower rises over 65 feet high and has walls over 5 feet thick supported by two heavy buttresses. Although there is an entrance at ground level, the tower was originally reached by crossing a drawbridge from the solar. Inside the South Tower are reminders that this stalwart structure also served as a residence. So, not surprisingly, we encounter garderobes (latrines) which dumped into the moat, fireplaces and tall lancet-headed windows with seats. The battlemented rooftop has a turret and an interesting pair of chimneys.

Alongside the South Tower is the only surviving piece of curtain wall still reaching its original height (34 feet). Thanks to Cromwell's troops, the rest of the masonry walling was torn down.

Perhaps the most enchanting feature at Stokesay Castle is its pretty gatehouse. One wonders if the builder really expected an assault on the castle, for this modest structure would never have been able to withstand any kind of siege. Apparently, the present gatehouse replaced the earliest one, for what we see today dates to the late 16th or early 17th centuries and was probably ordered by then-owner, Sir George Mainwaring, who bought the castle in 1570. Evidently, the gatehouse was completed by 1620, when the Cravens, noteworthy Royalists, moved into the manor.

Interestingly, during this period in England, there was a resurgence in the craft of wood-carving. Stokesay reaped the vast rewards of this revival. The gatehouse is overflowing with elaborate carvings, including spectacular representations of the controversial occurrence in the Garden of Eden. The structure is simply marvelous. Pausing to admire its beauty is a delightful way to begin and end your tour of this castle-cum-manor.

Stokesay Castle survived the aggression of the English Civil War relatively unscathed. Unlike nearby Ludlow, the fortified manor house quickly surrendered to Parliamentary troops in 1645, wisely avoiding a siege which undoubtedly would have destroyed it. After its perfunctory slighting, the Cravens retained control of their manor house, leasing it to a series of tenants after 1648.

From the mid-18th century, the castle was rented by farmers, who used the hall as a cooper's shop, the solar as a granary, and the South Tower held a blacksmith's workshop. While the transformation of the buildings into workshops should have contributed to the castle's ruination, it actually ensured its survival. Repairs were made during the 1850's and 1860's, and in 1869 the Cravens sold their castle at Stokesay to the Allcrofts, who played an integral role in its ongoing preservation. Today, marvelous Stokesay Castle is under the guardianship of English Heritage, which maintains the structure and opens it to the public on a regular basis. There is a nominal fee.

Stokesay Castle is one of Shropshire's finest attractions, and is located about 2 miles south of the village of Craven Arms, on the A49.

Lise Hull is a freelance writer specializing in British heritage. She also owns and operates CASTLES UNLIMITED, a research business dedicated to the study and promotion of British castles. She has a Masters Degree in Historic Preservation and has visited over 160 British castles. She may be reached at: 942 2nd Street NE, Bandon, OR 97411. Email: CASTLESU@aol.com OR castlesu@harborside.com